Drunk on the city
If you haven’t already, you might want to read ‘Paris for the First Time’ which covers Londres à Paris, jour 00. Today’s post mainly covers photographic galleries and some cool places to eat and drink in Paris. If you have any thoughts or questions about anything below, please feel free to get in touch.
PARIS, JOUR 01
Friday, 8 July 2022
After an evening of drinking a little bit too much, there are two things that can help. Firstly, a good lie in. Secondly, the nearest patisserie or boulangerie. Fortunately, both were available this morning. And whilst it might be tempting to find and try all the top rated – numerous bakeries proclaim proudly the year their croissant won ‘best’ – as a Brit in France, can you really tell the difference? We found a cute little cafe nestled down a side street near our hotel called Pâtisserie Emma Duvéré that served, along with pastries, delicious coffee marking the start of the first full day in Paris.
Despite the fact that most of this blog is dedicated to politics, pride or personal posts, my background training is actually in photography, of which Paris has a rich history – perhaps more so that even London. There are plenty of galleries to visit, each with a charm and dedication to the medium and I was pleased that Don agreed to be dragged around them, indulging my in this pleasure.
From my research, I wanted to head to Maison Européenne de la Photographie – affectionally known as ‘MEP’ – but I’d also found a number of smaller galleries around the 3eme and 4eme, all within walking distance.
The first we visited was a small gallery space called Polka Galerie, where a collection by Jean-Pierre Leloir was being shown. The work focuses much on the artists love of music, and the viewer is treated to a unique view into the lives of musicians, recording artists and performers. The synopsis reminds us that these images were made at a time when you could photograph freely, without limit, on a station platform, in a minibus or on stage, and as such there are wonderful portraits of stars such as Miles Davis, Nina Simone, John Coltrane and Louis Armstrong.
One of the joys of walking a city such as Paris, London or New York is that you also stumble across things you might otherwise miss, and the second gallery of the day fell into this category. And by chance, we got to see Emeric Lhuisset’s ‘Ukraine – Hundred Hidden Faces’ at Gilles Rouault galerie/multipules.
This project, at a time when the war in Ukraine continues, is so important and each of these portraits, paired with a copy of a hand-filled form from each subject, documents both the tragedy of conflict along with the optimism of the Ukrainian people. I found myself moved to tears by the rawness of each personal account, transported to cities at the heart of the war. Interestingly, the face in every photograph is hidden. Instead we are shown each from the rear, adding levels of anonymity in order to protect identity at this fragile time – it’s a stark contrast to the reality and honesty in the accompanying words.
The way this show is hung also adds to rawness, with most images being pasted as if transient posters meant to be temporary and destroyed after a period of time has elapsed. Despite my emotions, it is so important that we do not forget the lives of the ordinary caught up in circumstances beyond their control.
Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP) was the third gallery to visit, and unlike the others, is more in line with a museum rather than private gallery where works were for sale. It fells similar to The Photographers’ Gallery in London, although with a slightly larger space, and showing two shows both themes around MEP’s ‘Love Songs’ season.
Firstly, Karla Hiraldo Voleau’s ‘Another Love Story’ took over the Studio, and depicts a relationship the artist had with a man. Whilst the photographs depict lust and desire, and a positive, romanticised view of the affair, the text transcripts depict a different story that tells of the true reality.
Secondly, in the Galleries, was ‘Love Songs’ – a collective exhibition which brought together fourteen series by some of the most important photographers of the 20th and 21st centres, including Nan Golden, Sally Mann and Larry Clark.
In it, I discovered the work of Lin Zhipeng (aka No 223), whose playful work documents the fluidity of sexuality in a playful way, that appears almost candid in its approach. The contrast, colours and approach reminded me in part of Martin Parr and of Ewen Spencer too.
After spending the morning and early afternoon walking and visiting different galleries, it was time to stop for something to eat en route to the final gallery of the day. Around Place de la Rèpublic, we found Bouillon – a very affordable, plush restaurant which perhaps unusually for France was still accepting diners for lunch at around 15h00 when we arrived.
The food here is, for the price at least, ridiculously good. Where I went for the ham hock, Don opted for the steak, both of which were served with chips. And can you visit France without, at least once, eating crème brûlée? We each ordered one, and when they came, they were enormous and perhaps worth visiting for alone.
Lastly, we paid a visit to Les Douches La Galerie – a small gallery interesting located in a former public bathhouse. However, if like me, you’re tempted to visit at least in part for the setting alone, then you might be somewhat underwhelmed as most of the evidence of the spaces former life have all but been covered up. Another note is that the gallery is on the first floor, so don’t be surprised that you have to buzz the entry phone in order to get in.
There were two shows on display here: Ray K. Metzker’s ‘Light Sculptor’, and; Thomas Boivin’s ‘Fragments’. The first was a beautiful collection of high contrast, black and white, street photography would have loved to own. The latter was a series of still lifes, that whilst interesting, wasn’t my favourite.
In the late-afternoon, Don had planned to meet two friends who just happened to be in town at the same time, so whilst we waited, we took a stroll up to Canal Saint-Martin where we watched the boats navigate locks and enter the tunnel that runs under squares and parks until it reemerges south of Place de la Bastille.
The rendezvous spot was Folderol, a wine bar-come-ice cream shop, interestingly pairing the two. I chose a scoop orange cream and one of rhubarb, and together we shared a delicious bottle of orange wine from Greece. Whilst Folderol is definitely on the pricier side, it is a well designed space, filled with beautiful product and great staff who make you feel right at home.
Vidushi lives in Bangalore and was travelling home from some work in Brussels, whereas Etienne lives in London but returns to the city he grew up in somewhat frequently.
On Etienne’s recommendations, we walked back along the canal, popping into Artazart – a bookshop and gallery seemingly focused on image, design and photography, before grabbing a beer at, Café A, near to Gare de l’Est. I’d definitely pop into Artazart, but at €10 each, the beer at Café A is fairly overpriced, even for Paris.
After both friends had left, we ambled back towards our hotel in Bastille, and as we walked we realised that we were still peckish. If by chance, we stumbled once more across a hidden gem – Bambino. This intimate tapas bar had a really cool vibe, with delicious small plates being served as well, and I’d definitely recommend adding this to a list of places to head to in the city.
With the reality of an early start the following morning, and with the sense of true elation for simply being alive in this city, we ambled home towards Bastille, not only drunk of good wine and ample beer, but on the city too.