Paris for the first time
It seems to have been a while since I travelled, let alone wrote about travelling. But somewhat on a whim, and somewhat out of necessity, I booked an impromptu trip to France, anchored around spending time at my friend’s holiday home on the northern edge of the Occitanie. Instead of flying or driving, I’ve endeavoured to travel by train instead. The following series of posts document this trip, highlighting the different things that filled my itinerary each day. If you have any questions, please get in touch.
Londres à Paris, Jour 00
Thursday, 7 July 2022
I don’t want to talk badly about my previous visits to Paris, but for me there is a difference between being a tourist in a city, and living like a local. The latter takes a complete change of attitude that arguably can only be achieved once one has visited and seen the city for the first time with virgin eyes.
Perhaps that’s why in 2015, when I came with an ex who’d never seen the City of Lights before, I was left frustrated at the novelty of landmarks, of collecting photographs at key vistas throughout the city over actually exploring the vast reaching offer a city such as Paris has to offer.
I’m pleased that instead of the idea of having to ‘see’ the sights, this time, instead I am investing in visiting the institutions that are closer to my heart, and that will inspire me further, and I’m grateful that my travel partner for this part of the trip, Don, is willing to go along with this alternative itinerary as they too have visited Paris a number of times before too.
So for perhaps the first time, it feels as if I’m going to be discovering a Paris that I will grow to love, and perhaps a little cliché to say, but seeing the real Paris for the first time.
Other than my 2015 trip, I visited back in 2012 with a group of friends from university for that year’s Paris Photo. And whilst I managed to explore some of the city, notably with a friend from Somerset who was studying here, Jess, again much of that trip was spent following a crowd, rather than fulfilling ones own agenda, although it offered a unique experience of the French capital.
The first thing to realise is that Paris is much like other major European cities. It has a life of its own and it is easy to get lost, overwhelmed and downtrodden. So rule number one, that is as true at home in London (and the advise I give all friends who have newly arrived there) just as much as it is here in the French capital – don’t look like a tourist. There is never a better time to act like someone you want to be than in a city such as this, and by walking with purpose you suddenly become less of a target.
On arriving at Gare du Nord at around 15h30, we made our way straight to our hotel in the 11th, not too far from Place de la Bastille. This neighbourhood already feels full of life, and is close enough to the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th to not need to rely on public transport too much. It’s perhaps the Parisian equivalent of Shoreditch, or perhaps now of Hackney Wick.
Our hotel – ibis Paris Bastille Opéra 11ème – is nothing to write home about, but for a place to rest our heads each night, it fulfils the purpose. It’s easy to get too, no thrills and has everything you might need to feel at home.
Once checked in, it was a short walk around to the Metro where we headed west. We’d already had recommendations from friends to dine at a restaurant, close to Franklin D. Roosevelt, called Le Mermoz. We were on track to be at least an hour early for our table, so instead alighted at Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre. Now, I know I just moaned about being a tourist, but sometimes there is joy to be found in being an anti-tourist and enjoying these areas without the pressure of getting the perfect selfie.
From there, it was a slow amble through the Jardin des Tuileries, and we took a seat around the Bassin Octogonal to people watch for a while. It’s then a short walk up part of the Avenue des Champs-Élysees, but despite our delaying tactics we were still early. So we found a cafe, and ordered a beer – this is the true pleasure of both being on holiday and of being in France – that there are amble tables along the street to choose from.
Le Mermoz is a contemporary French restaurant serving a variety of dishes, each seemingly with a twist. The highlight came via a recommendation from the waiter which was a version of essentially ‘dippy eggs’ with spices. I’ve massively undersold it, but if you go before their menu changes, definitely try it. It’s a little on the pricy side, and with a carafe of wine, the bill for two totalled €120 – but a nice treat to start my vacance en France.
After that, we took a short stroll to the Arc de Triomphe to take the Metro to Hôtel de Ville for Les Marais – the LGBT+ heart of the city. Top of my list, more for nostalgia rather than desire was to show Don Le Raidd – a bar infamous for the shower above the bar where, especially on a Thursday, a go-go dancer performs a strip tease of sorts. When Jess took me in 2012, I was fascinated by this act, and I took my ex to visit in 2015. But on this pilgrimage of sorts, it seems less exotic and more expected – a mixed crowd crowed to get a view as if we were all in on a joke.
A note of caution is that the ‘show’ happens quite late, so whilst we had arrived around 10pm, it didn’t start until 12:30am, and then lasted maybe 15 minutes. If you’ve never seen it, do go check it out, especially on a Thursday.
And so, half cut from the mojitos, the wine over dinner and the pure bliss of being in Paris, we ambled home towards the 11eme, and to bed.